HIDING YOUR FIRST CACHE

This short tutorial is designed to help those new to geocaching to successfully hide their first geocache. It will present guidelines on building a basic traditional cache, selecting a hiding spot, hiding the cache, listing the geocache, and maintaining the cache. By following this tutorial, you will be able to successfully place a quality cache. Enjoy!

NOTE: This is not meant to be an end-all definition of what a cache is or how to place one. Once you've found and placed a few caches you will know what is acceptable and what is outside the bounds. Once you've gotten a few cache hides under your belt you can certainly start testing the bounds and let your imagination run wild. Until then, sticking to proven techniques will allow you to get started successfully hiding caches.

As has been noted on the geocaching.com web site, the most basic form of a cache is a logbook. You will want to protect that logbook from the elements. Most cachers also expect to be able to trade items within the cache. These are the very basics of a cache. More advanced forms of caches are beyond the scope of this tutorial.

Selecting a container

You will want a container that is sturdy, secure, water resistant, and can withstand the elements.

You don't want to use a container with a lid that can easily pop off, thus exposing the contents to the elements and ruining your cache. Those disposable plastic containers are not a good idea. Ziploc, Rubbermaid, and others make containers which have a secure, tight, and positive seal to keep the elements out. They are well worth the little bit of extra money paid.

NOTE: It's not a good idea to use containers that have ever held food. Animals have very sensitive noses and can chew through the plastic or even carry the cache off never to be found again! Some people have successfully cleaned and used food containers, but the process is involved and beyond the scope of this tutorial. It's best to use a new container for the first few of your caches. Otherwise, if your cache goes missing you wouldn't know if you didn't hide it well or an animal made off with it.

Another container that is popular is the military surplus ammo can. They are made of a sturdy metal and seal quite positively. Check out your local Army Navy surplus store or the internet for sources.

Stick to either of these two containers and you will have a quality cache. Later you can experiment with alternatives.

"Should I camouflage my container?"

The important thing about the container is that it is secure and weather resistant. Camouflaging is optional, but helps hide it from those you don't want to find it. I've had trouble finding many plastic containers that have white, red or blue lids simply because the owner hid the cache well. (This will be discussed later in this tutorial.) So camouflaging your container is up to you but doesn't guarantee a quality hide.

Logbook

The logbook you choose is up to you. It simply has to be small enough to fit in the cache along with your trade items if you choose to include them, but you'll want it to be large enough so that you don't have to continually replace it during your cache maintenance.

In the logbook, it’s a good idea to write a welcome note to the finder. On the front, put the name of the cache, the waypoint ID if you know it, and your contact information so someone can contact you if there is a problem. This way you can have a better chance of at least recovering the logbook if anything happens to your cache.

NOTE: It would be a good idea to include a couple of pens, or a pencil in colder regions, and put the logbook and pens in a Ziploc bag for extra protection.

Trade Items

Trade items are not required, but are generally expected. Most family cachers like to hunt caches with trade items so the kids have a "treasure" at the end of the hunt. The items that you put in your cache are up to you. They should be pretty much the same type of items that you would trade. The more caches you find the more of a pattern you will see. Think of the stuff that you’ve traded for, or stuff you’d like to see.

"Well, what shouldn’t I put in there?"

Food is never a good idea. Food is defined as anything you can consume, therefore likely that an animal will want to consume it, as well.

Things that smell nice. Some will attract animals. Others are just too strong and can knock over anyone that opens your cache.

Anything that can melt, like candles and crayons, can be ruined in a cache because of the heat.

Firearms, ammunitions, adult oriented items like condoms, tampons (yes, I’ve seen one), alcoholic beverages, cigarettes, lighters, or any items along those lines aren’t really a good idea.

Miscellany

It would also be a good idea to include a brief note explaining what a geocache is if a non-cacher finds it. There are plenty of examples on the geocaching.com web site.

It’s also a very good idea to mark the exterior of your container with GEOCACHE and your emergency contact information. You don’t want your cache destroyed by the bomb squad because someone freaked out upon seeing an unattended box.

For many people "the hide" is the most important element of geocaching. The challenge of the hunt or places to which you can bring someone is what gets a lot of people motivated, so you’ll have to select your hiding spot with care.

The "spot" can be as simple as your local park. It could be a mountain peak, a trail, or just about anything of interest. For your first cache, you should choose something simple. A local park or hiking trail will do. You might want to place your first cache fairly close to home as selecting a spot takes time to scout the area and will most likely require multiple trips—you’ll see why in a minute. You want to be able to check on your cache if problems arise. As you gain confidence you can push your bounderies out a bit.

Things to look for:

• A safe environment. Don’t look at places that are run down, trashy, or have drug dealers on every corner. You want a place where people will feel comfortable.
• Not too many people. The park can be popular, but it will need to have a place, maybe a back corner, were the finder can hunt unobserved. You can build more challenging caches later.
• Must be public, or publicly accessible, land. You want people to be able to get to it without breaking any laws. Also, avoid areas where entry and exit might be tricky or cachers might accidently trespass.
• It must be away from military installations, public utilities and water sources, railroad right-of-ways, police stations, and airports. Basically, it shouldn’t be near any terrorist targets or dangerous areas.

Permission

It’s always good to know if you can place a cache where you want. It wouldn’t be good to just place a cache and then be told you must remove it. Or worse, the landowner just picks it up and throws it away. Check to get permission to place your cache. They will probably let you know what areas of the park will be okay to put a cache, what areas where it isn’t a good idea to go off-trail, etc.

Please be aware many park systems and municipalities have geocaching policies. If you have an active local group there is the best place to ask about such a policy. Policies vary in requirements and it would be impossible to detail them here. If in doubt ask.

Actual hiding spot

Look for a preliminary spot to place the cache. Keep in mind the cache that you’ve built, you want it to fit. Or, you can build the cache to fit the hiding spot.

Check for other caches

Once you’ve selected a spot, go ahead and take some preliminary readings with your GPS. Go online and do a search from those coordinates to see if there are any nearby caches. Generally, if there is a cache within 1/10 mile of your spot you’ll have a very hard time getting yours listed on geocaching.com--they have a fairly rigid proximity rule. If your spot is too close to another cache you’ll have to move your spot. An easy way to do this is enter the coordinates of any nearby caches and go back into the field. If you haven’t yet, find the nearest caches to get an idea where they are. Put that cache’s coordinates in your GOTO, or whatever, so you will know how far away from the other caches you are and then go look for another spot. Once you’ve found another spot you can easily check to see if you are far enough away by looking at your GPS. Make sure to check for any other nearby caches.

NOTE: If you have an idea of where you want to place your cache, you can pre-load the area’s waypoints so you don’t have to make multiple trips and still know that you are a safe distance away from other caches.

Also be aware that geocaching.com requires you cache to not only be 1/10 of a mile from any other caches, but also 1/10 of a mile for any stage of any multicache.

For the sake of this tutorial we’re going to keep it simple, yet hopefully challenging.

You will generally want to hide your cache out of casual eyesight. Throwing your cache under a bush right next to a path and allowing it to be easily viewed is just asking for it to not last long.

Here are a few examples:

• Behind an object where very few people go is a good choice.
• In thick bushes, only watch that they don’t thin out in the winter, thus exposing your cache.
• Under footbridges or boardwalks are good as well.
• In a small depression covered with leaves.
• Next to or under a log covered with leaves or pine straw.
• Tucked under monkey grass or other thick ground cover. It can hide a surprisingly large cache.

Things to watch out for

• You want to watch that your hiding spot doesn’t cause problems with the environment. You don’t want cachers trampling sensitive plants or landscaping.
• You also don’t want to place it somewhere where cachers will create a trail right to your cache. It will give away the location. Try for more durable ground cover that will conceal footprints and recover from people walking on it.
• You want your cache easy to replace. If you’re using something like leaves or sticks to cover your cache, make sure there is ample supply and they can put it back as well as they found it.

There is nothing worse than creating a waypoint many tens, if not hundreds, of feet from the cache. Many folks will not hunt a new cache of a new geocacher simply because so many fail to acquire accurate coordinates.

If you are using a Magellan SporTrak series of GPS then you are in luck as we have a tutorial to guide you in getting very accurate coordinates. GO>

Users of other units can use a similar procedure, but the best advice I can give is know your particular brand and model. Practice in your own backyard by taking waypoints and then later try to find the spot again. If you are consistantly getting within 20' or so, then you're good. Even a consistant 50' is better than not knowing your waypoint is 250' from the cache.

Getting your cache listed is generally fairly easy. By far most geocaches are listed on geocaching.com. It is also there where you will get nearly immediate feedback because of the sheer numbers of folks using that site. Once you get comfortable with placing caches and are ready to branch out to challenges beyond what Groundspeak, the parent of geocaching.com, will allow then you can explore other sites or list them privately.

When listing your cache on geocaching.com you will be required to read the Listing Guidelines and the Terms of Use. Dry reading, but they are the official guidelines and policies of that site. Don't worry, if you've followed the above suggestions you should be okay.

The Description

When reporting your hide there is no need to get too wordy with the description. A lot of folks don't care for the complete history of the location. It might be best to keep it simple to start.

There is no need to list the contents of the cache in the description. If you want to put the original contents then put it in a note. After a few visits the list will not be accurate and as a note it will fall down in the log list.

The Hint

Hints, nudges, tickles, spoilers, or whatever you call them are an artform. You want to just give them enough to find the cache without giving it away. Don't put something cutesy like "you don't need a hint," it won't be appreciated. If you don't want to leave a hint, just leave it blank.

It's very important to maintain your cache. It's important to the future finders and to the community. Geocaches that remain un-maintained become geo-litter and a blight on the geocaching community and the hobby.

As a first time cache placer it is important to monitor your cache either by visiting the cache page or paying attention to any log notifications. Don't take constructive criticism personally. Some cachers have seen the same mistakes over and over again, and might be a little short. Don't worry about it. Correct whatever issue there is and move on.

Be prepared to go and re-check your coordinates. If you get similar results as when you placed it, don't change anything--some folks will complain if your coordinates don't exactly match their super-duper new-age GPS down to the last six inches. Ignore them. You will learn who to listen to.

The quality of the trinkets isn't as important as keeping the cache dry and the logbook with available pages. Clean out the trash periodically. We rarely freshen the contents of our caches because most trade fairly.

Watch for signs of wear around the cache. You don't want social trails--signs and trails that lead through the woods or park directly to your cache--because it exposes your cache to compromise, but also is less than good land stewardship. Landowners pay attention to this. Your cache hide should be as if it is not there.

That's pretty much it. Fairly simple, huh? There is a lot to assimilate at first, but it gets pretty darn easy.

Have fun!